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What Ink Pen Is Best For Signing Photographic Prints?

Posted by Hub on September 22, 2009 at 10:00 PM

Guest Commentary by Harald Johnson


(Editor's note:  Harald Johnson is a long-time friend, editor of DP&I.com and author of the popular "Mastering Digital Printing" book which has become a standard text for serious digital printmakers.  When I mentioned I was writing an article on "Signing Photographic Prints", Harald volunteered the following informal test, using popular print signing marking pens, for PMPN readers.  Although some photographers prefer to sign in pencil, a significant number of photographers use ink pens.  Harald's test is an "eye opener" for those using ink markers to sign their prints.)


For various reasons, I had to abort a Window Test last year.  It was a test of putting different prints in two south-facing windows (I'm in northern hemisphere) and basically watching what happens over time. But an interesting result of the short-lived test was what happened to the markings on the prints. I planned this knowing that artists and photographers are always curious about signing their prints, but it ended up being the most telling part of the test.

 

I had three people (including myself) use four different marking pens on the print surfaces they were printing and providing to me for the test. I simply had them write the printing data on a non-inked part of the print surface of two identical prints using the pen(s) they had selected on their own. One print went into the window, and the other went into a dark drawer in the same room.

 

And here are the actual pens used to mark the prints (below). They are: a Memorex CD/DVD marker UPI 34707 00461 on Epson inkjet prints; a Pilot G-2 07 gel pen on Canon inkjet prints; and on the HP prints, I used: (A) a standard, black, ultra-fine point Sanford Sharpie "permanent marker" and also (B) a common Bic Soft Feel Medium pen (and a common #2 pencil).

 


 

 

After only 3 MONTHS of partial sun exposure of the prints as they rotated through the eight test-exposure positions (rotating all prints every night), take a look at what happened to several of the markings at the extreme ends of the scale.  (Mark Segal provided the Epson print and markings for this test.)


The biggest surprise was what happened with the Bic pen on the HP Hahnemuehle Smooth Fine Art print I made on the HP Z3100 (a pigment ink printer). The markings basically disappeared! (see exposed print scan below) There's also Sharpie marker fading on both the HP Pro Satin and the Fuji Frontier, but nowhere near as bad as the Bic on the fine art paper.

 


ABOVE: I used a black Bic Soft Feel Medium pen on this HP fine art paper; the dark-stored print is at left and the light-exposed print on right. Pencil marking was added to exposed print two months into test.  And yes, the Bic pen was BLACK, not orange or yellow!

 



ABOVE: Standard black Sanford Sharpie marker on HP satin paper. Clearly faded. This is another example of Sharpie fading that I've written about elsewhere in a previous test.  (image on left was dark-stored, image on right was light-exposed)


 

ABOVE: I again used a Sharpie (the same one) on the Fuji Frontier prints. And again, the Sharpie markings are already fading (dark-stored on left, exposed on right).  I find it amazingly ironic that Sharpies are labeled "permanent markers").


ABOVE: A Memorex CD/DVD marker on the Epson prints. At left is the dark-stored print, at right the exposed print; no discernable difference.


NOTE: Not shown is the Pilot G-2 07 gel pen markings on the Canon prints that also showed little, if any, fading.


IMPORTANT NOTE from Harald: Because I didn't really conduct a controlled test of these marking pens, only randomly having markings assigned to prints, it's important NOT to equate the fading or non-fading of the markings with the print performances themselves. While the Bic marking on the HP Hahnemuehle SmoothFine Art is almost completely gone, the image testing on that paper was doing better than the Fuji Frontier print, which showed better marking strength (although also faded). I don't know what would have happened if I had used the Memorex CD marker on each print. But one thing is clear: some marking pens work better than others on different papers, and I, for one, would not sign any print with a Bic Soft Feel or a Sharpie pen with this early (poor) result.

 

Categories: Guest Commentaries

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9 Comments

Reply Michael Stathatos
11:57 AM on September 23, 2009
The reason felt pens like sharpies are labled "permanent" is because the dyes used in them are not soluble in water, not because they will not eventually fade. As I stated in the first part of the article, China or India inks are perfectly suitable for the task because they are made chiefly from carbon black and shellac and are virtually impossible to remove. However the application of these inks can be messy, so I stick with pencil.
Reply hubsportland
12:01 PM on September 23, 2009
Michael Stathatos says...
The reason felt pens like sharpies are labled "permanent" is because the dyes used in them are not soluble in water, not because they will not eventually fade. As I stated in the first part of the article, China or India inks are perfectly suitable for the task because they are made chiefly from carbon black and shellac and are virtually impossible to remove. However the application of these inks can be messy, so I stick with pencil.


Hi Michael,

I understand your point. Well taken. Do you have a specific fine tip, ink pen that you would recommend for those who elect to use ink to sign there work?
Reply Michael Stathatos
02:25 PM on September 23, 2009
I'm sorry but I have no recommendations. As I have said previously, I don't sign with ink, never have. Truth to tell, the mere thought of getting indelible ink anywhere near one of my fine prints makes me very nervous.
Reply Haraldo
10:23 PM on September 26, 2009
Hi Michael (and Tom),

Good point about "permanent" Sharpies, but most people have taken the original meaning and stretched it to include "lightfast-permanent". I -- and I'm sure many reading this -- have seen lots of photo prints signed with Sharpies. And my test (and others) show clearly that a Sharpie is one of the worst marking implements one can use to sign prints. I did not test China nor India inks, although that might make a good test for someone down the road. My main point with my test and text and scans is that the type of marking device selected can make a big difference, and that "markers" are definitely not all the same in terms of fading or lightfastness. Having an artist's signature fade prematurely completely defeats the point of having a signature in the first place. That's why I think this is an important (and often overlooked) subject.

Your comment about never using ink markers means that you never print on glossy or semi-glossy papers, correct? And as pencil does not work well on those two surfaces, what's a photographer to do who uses those media? That's the question I was attempting to answer with my informal and limited test. And you'll notice that one ink-pen marker (the Memorex CD marker Mark Segal used) had zero visual fading in the short period of the accelerated test. And because it's a normal marking pen, that's the one I would put my money on.

But I suggest that any photographer signing prints with a marking pen do his/her own simple, comparative window test to see how different markings actually hold up. Your signed art deserves it.

Harald Johnson
Reply Roy
11:14 PM on September 26, 2009
Hi, I've just discovered this site through linkedin, and I found this article very interesting indeed. Mainly because this is exactly an issue I've been trying to figure out for a while. I've tried many types of pen to sign prints (and I have to admit that up to this point, I've usually signed on the image area...!) and I've yet to find a pen that works well. I've tried pencil, many degrees of hardness/softness from HB down to 5B or so, but a problem I'm finding is the the pencil will just not write on the paper I'm using. For exhibition and for sale of my prints I use Da Vinci Fibre based paper with pigment inks from my Epson R2400 printer. The paper is a heaveyweight 310gsm paper with a feel of real darkroom fibre based paper. but... no pencil will write on it. I've also tried Epson paper and same thing, pencil will not write on the paper.

I've learned a great deal from this article, not least of which is that I shouldn't sign on the image area.. :-) but if anyone can tell me how to get a pencil to write onto my paper I would be most greatful.
Reply Haraldo
01:50 PM on September 27, 2009
Welcome to the discussion, Roy!

Unless someone has come up with a unique innovation, I think you're going to have to move to ink for signing on your fiber-gloss paper (unless you move to the back of the print). Just don't use a Sharpie! ;-)

BTW, if you follow that link above on the words "written about elsewhere", you can see what happens to Sharpie markings after 9 months. Look at the little numbers on the bottom right of the print reproductions. And that jives with what I have seen in real life on older prints signed with Sharpies.
Reply hubsportland
01:59 PM on September 27, 2009
Roy says...
Hi, I've just discovered this site through linkedin, and I found this article very interesting indeed. Mainly because this is exactly an issue I've been trying to figure out for a while. I've tried many types of pen to sign prints (and I have to admit that up to this point, I've usually signed on the image area...!) and I've yet to find a pen that works well. I've tried pencil, many degrees of hardness/softness from HB down to 5B or so, but a problem I'm finding is the the pencil will just not write on the paper I'm using. For exhibition and for sale of my prints I use Da Vinci Fibre based paper with pigment inks from my Epson R2400 printer. The paper is a heaveyweight 310gsm paper with a feel of real darkroom fibre based paper. but... no pencil will write on it. I've also tried Epson paper and same thing, pencil will not write on the paper.

I've learned a great deal from this article, not least of which is that I shouldn't sign on the image area.. :-) but if anyone can tell me how to get a pencil to write onto my paper I would be most greatful.


Hi Roy,

From my own experiences, Harald is correct. The very nature of the surface you are attempting to sign doesn't provide the "tooth" necessary for pencil. It's for this reason that many photographers opt for ink, as Harald mentioned in one of his comments. The only option for signing with pencil on these papers is to sign on the back of the print.
Reply AndrewDarlow
09:45 AM on September 28, 2009
Thanks for doing the legwork on this Harald. It would also be interesting to see 3-4 different Lead pencils to see if all react the same over time.

My top pick for a pen for semi-gloss or glossy print signing is the Sakura Pigma Micron Pen.

It is available in at least 4 Point Sizes ? A set of three is available at the retailer below: One each of 01 (0.25 mm), 03 (0.35 mm), and 05 (0.45 mm). Black ink.

You can find it here for a very reasonable price:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz207/02/

I wrote about the Sakura Pigmas here:
http://www.reddogjournal.com/darlow-15

Here is another article on the topic:

http://www.pmpnonline.com/apps/blog/show/1649246-signing-photogr
aphic-prints
Reply Ted Jerome
06:58 PM on September 28, 2009
I agree with Andrew about the Sakura pens. Truly indelible and fade-proof, and they will write on glossy photos.

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